Snapshot: Georgetown

In With the Old and the New

Georgetown doesn’t change much, and that’s one of the beautiful things about this impossibly charming Northwest Washington neighborhood. The cobblestone streets, the brick storefronts, and the impeccable Federal-style row houses all tell the history of the city’s oldest neighborhood.

But there’s a new development in this well-heeled enclave: In recent years, the neighborhood’s food scene has undergone a revival, with buzzy restaurants from acclaimed chefs moving in amongst the old guard. Newbies in the neighborhood include everything from fancy bagel sandwiches with chimichurri at Call Your Mother to modernist tasting menus at Michelin-starred Reverie. Soon to come is an outpost of Nancy Silverton’s famed Los Angeles restaurant Osteria Mozza, in conjunction with hit-maker restaurateur Stephen Starr. Keep reading for a weekend’s worth of dining out options in Georgetown.

Places to Eat in Georgetown

Plenty of Georgetown restaurants have stood the test of time, from classics like power dining spot Cafe Milano and old-school bar Martin’s Tavern to new institutions like waterfront Italian destination Fiola Mare or hipster cupcake shop Baked & Wired.

But there’s undoubtedly a French accent in the air here, with an influx of bistros in recent years. Stalwart La Chaumière is now joined by the likes of self-proclaimed Champagne-and-caviar haunt Apéro, burger destination La Bonne Vache, cozy brasserie L’Avant-Garde and adjoining cocktail bar L’Annexe, and the intimate Chez Billy Sud with its picture-perfect patio. One shining star is Lutèce, a tiny, hip “neo-bistro” that’s enjoyed national attention for its fresh takes on the classics (like Parisian gnocchi infused with white miso and preserved lemon).

Lutèce’s next-door neighbor is another chef-driven outpost called Yellow, Michael Rafidi’s casual, colorful Levantine café. Morning here means pastel cups full of Turkish coffee and baklava croissants, while the wood-fired oven switches over later to bake “not pizzas” with toppings like brussels sprouts and urfa chili cream.

For another take on Mediterranean cuisine, pick up sweet potato focaccia from Green Almond Pantry. Chef Cagla Onal-Urel slings sandwiches and colorful salads from a corner of a tucked-away Georgetown food hall that’s also home to the vegan outpost of local bakery chain Bakeshop. Vegans and vegetarians should also check out plant-powered taco shop Chaia next door.

Where to Stay in Georgetown

Many of the hotels here cater to celebrities and visiting dignitaries, with a price tag per night that reflects that sort of clientele. But if you’re willing to forgo the posh pampering, two unique properties are offering a (relatively) affordable way to stay in the neighborhood. Sonder, a short-term apartment rental company, set up an outpost in a brick courtyard development right off the C&O Canal. An app gets you inside, where you’ll find apartments set up with streamlined furnishings, kitchens, floor-to-ceiling windows, and even private outdoor terraces and Pelotons in some rooms.

The Georgetown House is also set up with its own keyless entry, and this boutique inn operates without daily maid service or round-the-clock staff. What it does have is a view of the C&O Canal right from your doorstep, and cozy quarters in your “Lock.” That’s what the 11 rooms in The Georgetown House are called, drawing from the building’s rich history: It once served as a stable for the mules who worked on the canal. Boat House Apparel, a tiny boutique located in a former ground-floor room, is a source for DC- and Georgetown-themed tees that are cute, not kitschy.

Things to Do in Georgetown

If you like to shop, you’re in the right place. Georgetown’s M Street and Wisconsin Avenues are lined with fashion brands clocking in at all sorts of price points, from H&M to Rag & Bone. Explore the chains, but be sure to visit home-grown indie boutiques, too. Serene natural skincare shop Take Care is stocked with sparkly eyeshadows and indulgent body lotions that are all made without harsh chemicals. If you want to dress like a Georgetown prep, Tuckernuck has the essentials covered, and SCOUT will sell you an extra-large tote to carry it all home.

Retail therapy aside, one of the best things to do in Georgetown is completely free: This is a lovely place to go for a walk. Meander through residential streets and try to catch a glimpse of manicured gardens (or historic homes once inhabited by the likes of Julia Child, Elizabeth Taylor, or Jackie Kennedy). Follow the towpath along the canal amid the bikers and joggers, then end your day at Georgetown Waterfront Park looking out at the Potomac River and DC landmarks like the Kennedy Center.

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