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He Can Add Tacos to His Resume

He Can Add Tacos to His Resume
Photos by Mac Kilduff

He is a New York Times best-selling author, star of season two of Mind of a Chef, a Pappy Van Winkle aficionado, ball-cap wearing Virginia boy. Sean Brock also makes a mean taco.

Minero, the newest restaurant by the Charleston, South Carolina-based chef, was one of the hottest “Is it Really Opening?” stories of the last few months. Construction started quietly, menu building began on scrap paper, and, all of the sudden, like an umbrella that opens with the push of a button, Minero opened.

For some, it has become rote to say that perhaps Brock is more hype than kitchen-brawn. Good manners should make one avoid that conversation all together, but I can’t. It is simply unjust. In my opinion, one of the things that set apart great chefs from good ones are their obsessive attention to detail, and Brock excels at this.  I present the following as evidence:

  • Pickled green tomato tartar atop the Fried Catfish Taco. The pucker perfect Appalachian condiment for the mountain-favorite fish could take its inspiration from England’s fish and chips as well, that is if they were sold out of the back of a Mexician food truck in Granite Falls, NC.
  • Taco al Pastor. Did you doubt the Husk chef could pull off perfect pulled pork? Pineapple adds a sweet finish to the smoky meat.
  • Chips and Salsa. Everything. The seasoned chips are served in a traditional tortilla warmer from San Miguel Designs. There’s the juxtaposition of flavor, heat and texture between the three flavors: benne, arbol, and verde. And the verde, oh the verde.

I can’t wait to eat at Minero again.