A Brief History of She-Crab Soup

By: The Local Palate

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[shee-krab so͞op] n: A rich, bisque-style crab soup with a signature tangy flavor and pale orange hue resulting from the addition of crab roe.

The Latin Name for the blue crab is Callinectes sapidus, meaning “beautiful savory swimmer.” One taste of she-crab soup, a Lowcountry classic, and you will know why. Creamy and balanced with just the right amount of tanginess, this bisque-chowder hybrid has long been associated with Charleston, Savannah, and the marshy coastal stretch that encompasses the two. Served with a cluster of ruby-orange crab roe, a heaping of lump Atlantic blue crabmeat, and just the daintiest splash of sherry, there is an undeniable allure to this proper “starting dish” that goes beyond delectability. While the basis for she-crab soup is thought to be “partan bree,” a mild crab soup thickened with rice and popular among Scottish immigrants at the turn of the nineteenth century, the addition of crab roe did not come until much later. Its creation has frequently been attributed to William Deas, who served as butler to the mayor of Charleston from 1903 to 1911.

Traditionally, she-crab soup was made exclusively using the meat of female crabs (regarded as sweeter than their male counterparts), but today chefs use male crabmeat as well. Other ingredients typically include milk or heavy cream, seafood stock, celery, onions, herbs, and a sprinkling of seasoning such as Old Bay, paprika, or cayenne. She-crab soup relies on a harvest of mature, pregnant she-crabs, but that practice has become complicated as seafood populations dwindle and restrictions on harvests tighten. Many chefs now substitute the unfertilized roe of immature females or sometimes just a bit of dry crumbled egg yolk sprinkled on the top—a symbolic allusion to the flavors of the past.

She-Crab Soup

recipe

yields

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients

2 carrots
4 celery stalks
1 medium yellow onion
2 cups milk
2 cups crab or shellfish stock (recipe follows)
1 cup heavy cream
Dash of Tabsaco sauce
Dash of worcestershire
¼ cup sherry
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons crab roe (if available*)
1 pound lump crabmeat
*Tip: To obtain crab roe, check with your fishmonger or local specialty food market. Crab roe injects a great deal of seafood flavor and a beautiful yellow hue to any recipe, but be prepared to buy in bulk and reserve extra for future soups and sauces.

steps

Place carrots, celery, and onion in bowl of food processor. Chop until fine.
In medium stockpot, combine milk, stock, cream, Tabasco, worcestershire, and sherry and bring to a boil.
In separate small stockpot, heat butter until foaming. Add flour and stir about 2 to 3 minutes, just until roux is formed.
Whisk roux into liquid ingredients until smooth and then add chopped vegetables and crab roe. Cook soup over medium heat until thickened. Add crabmeat and serve in warm bowls.

For crab stock

4–6 cups crab shells
1 gallon water
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons salt

Place crab shells in large stockpot, and add enough water to cover shells. Place over medium heat and cook just below a simmer for 1 hour. Use spoon to skim foam as needed from surface of stock. Do not stir.
Add bay leaf and continue to cook for 30 minutes. Add salt and remove from heat.
Strain through fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth and allow to cool.