Cookbook Review: How to Cook the Finest Things in the Sea

I was so excited to get my hands on Ari Kolender’s first cookbook, How To Cook the Finest Things in the Sea: Broil, Bake, Poach & Grill Your Way to Exceptional Fish & Shellfish, which proved to be a “what,” “how,” and “why” gateway to all things seafood. Tackling dishes and preparation that feels intimidating and elusive for many home cooks like myself, Kolender walks through how to purchase, store, prepare, and dazzle with a bounty of fish and shellfish dishes. Kolender ferries readers through basic principles of sustainable seafood shopping and techniques for foolproof preparation (with pictures), grouping the recipes by preparation method (i.e. baking, grilling, frying, etc.). Whether it’s a Sicilian crudo, broiled oysters, or fish baked in paper, Kolender adheres to the mantra “less is more.” A squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of freshly torn herbs; fish and shellfish need very little embellishment. 

Kolender hails from the waters of Charleston, South Carolina, cutting his teeth running the raw bar at The Ordinary then opening the acclaimed Leon’s Oysters & Poultry. Now residing in Los Angeles, Kolender owns and operates two of the most buzzing seafood restaurants in the city: Found Oyster and Queen’s Raw Bar & Grill. While many might assume his Lowcountry roots would have marinated him in all things fresh seafood, he grew up in a kosher household. Kolender claims to have written this book for his 20-year-old self, working in high-end seafood restaurants, exploring seafood for the first time, and gaining confidence along the way.