Pork Burgers with Cabbage Slaw

steps

1. Place the pork, 2 teaspoons salt, cumin, and cayenne in a medium bowl. In a large dry skillet, toast the fennel seeds over medium heat, stirring frequently, until they darken slightly and release aromas, about 2 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a mortar and let cool, then lightly crush (alternatively, scoot them into a pile on your cutting board and use a heavy pot to crack them). Spoon half the fennel seeds into the pork mixture, season with some black pepper, and use your hands to combine until the seasonings are evenly distributed. Form the pork mixture into 4 equal balls (do not pack them tightly).
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, vinegar, mustard, mayonnaise, and remaining fennel seeds. Season dressing with salt and black pepper. Cut the cabbage into roughly 1½-inch pieces; add them to the dressing and use your hands to thoroughly toss. Taste and season with more salt and pepper to your liking.
3. Heat a large heavy skillet over medium-high for 2 minutes, then drizzle it lightly with oil and swirl to coat. Add the pork to the pan, spacing the balls out, then immediately use a spatula to smash them down into ½-inch-thick patties. Cook, undisturbed, until well seared, crisp, and very brown on the underside, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook until just cooked through, 3 minutes more. Transfer the burgers to a plate and let rest. Split the rolls and lightly toast them. Build sandwiches by placing the slaw on the bottom halves, then a pork burger, then adding more slaw on top, so every bite will be a bun-slaw-burger-slaw-bun palindrome of delights.