Meatballs Pizzeria

On the eastern end of Sylva, North Carolina’s quaint downtown strip, Meatballs Pizzeria is a staple for many, particularly students at nearby Western Carolina University and their families in town to visit. But don’t wait for an invite from a new grad to stop in; the casual pizza joint’s imaginative flavors are reason enough to visit this Blue Ridge mountain town.

Even a first visit to the restaurant feels like a homecoming. Framed family photographs by spacious wooden booths give it a neighborly feel. More important- ly, any seat in the dining room provides a clear view of center stage: The wood-fired oven adds warmth to the restaurant as the smell of freshly baked dough and cheese wafts around the tables.

Before heading to the counter to place an order, pie en- thusiasts must first choose between two crusts. The Neapolitan sourdough thin crust, called 2023, celebrates Meatballs Pizzeria’s first year in business. The 1983 crust, a Roman-style square cut with a chewy, dry yeast dough ideal for holding hefty pizza toppings, pays homage to the former Meatballs Restaurant, which was opened in the early ’80s. Run by owner Crystal Pace’s stepmother Karen Martar, the original establishment serves as inspiration, from using the old family meatball recipe to the framed photograph of Martar in the dining room.

Crusts are just the beginning of what makes Meatballs Pizzeria exceptional; creative toppings are a standout, too. There are classic combinations, like the 1983-style pepperoni, but chef and owner Santiago Guzzetti dresses it up with thickcut pepperoni and Calabrian peppers. Rather than shy away from the oft- contentious savory and sweet combination of a Hawaiian, he reinterprets its flavors. The Hawaiian Cowboy’s chopped jalapeños are pickled in pineapple juice, then paired with bacon, prosciutto, and roasted red peppers.

But where Meatballs Pizzeria shines most is in its original flavor profiles, bringing together the best ingredients of the season. Much like at their sister restaurant, Ilda, the focus is on using Italian cooking techniques with seasonal Appalachian ingredients.

Ideal for cold weather, The Harvest’s roasted butternut squash, candied yams, and thinly sliced Asian pear are swaddled in a cranberry hot honey drizzle. The sweetness of the toppings is balanced with an earthy fontina cheese on a 1983 crust. Biting into it feels like feasting on holiday supper sides.

If you prefer savory, executive chef Perry Matthews honors his Indigenous roots and love of foraging with this winter’s new Forester’s Feast, featuring wild boar sausage, caramelized leeks, and garlic confit. There’s also a new Blue and Brussels with pancetta, garlic confit, roasted brussels sprouts, and ricotta bechamel.

When driving in, give yourself extra time—Meatballs Pizzeria sells craft beer from Innovation Brewing next door and patrons are encouraged to pop back and forth between the two. Between the temptation of a Soulvation IPA and a second slice, you may want to extend your stay. Or perhaps you’ll need time for a second visit like me; what was supposed to be a quick lunch before visiting a nearby Christmas tree farm turned into reshuffling my schedule to make time for a second pizzeria visit the following day. The Harvest pizza and holiday trees may be the start to a new winter weather tradition.

Menu Highlights

PEAR AND BALSAMIC
Bacon, thinly sliced Asian pears, walnuts, olive oil, and balsamic drizzle with gorgonzola

KAREN’S MEATBALL PIE
Sizable veal and pork meatballs from a family recipe atop mozzarella and parmesan

HAWAIIAN COWBOY
Bacon, prosciutto, candied jalapeños, and roasted red peppers with mozzarella