A First Look at TANA

By: Erin Oliver

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In 2019, chef Ming Pu and his wife Courtney walked out of Win Son in Brooklyn, New York, thinking, “What was that?” Their incredible meals from the Taiwanese-American restaurant felt both nostalgic and brand new. Completely blown away, these Louisville natives began to dream of a restaurant back home in the Bluegrass that could evoke a similar blend of feelings.

Chef Ming’s affinity for inventive cuisine began in Taiwan, where he was raised until he was 6 years old. He recalls days spent venturing to wet markets and harbors with his mother and experiencing her traditional cooking. “I’ve always been inspired to cook and had an interest in it from the start,” he reflected. Dumplings in particular, were eaten often. “Dumplings have literally been part of my life for as long as I can remember,” Pu said.

After leaving Taiwan and landing in Vancouver, his brother’s scholarship to the University of Louisville led Ming’s family to set up shop in the South. While growing up, Ming saw the area’s need for a more vast food scene that went beyond hot browns and bourbon–and more dumplings. “In 1990s Kentucky, there was such a lack of Asian food in general,” he explained. “It’s awesome to see so much more diversity now.”

Chef Ming has since become known for delivering bold dishes to Louisville, New Albany, and beyond. He refined his skills at Sullivan University’s culinary program, and worked at iconic spots like The English Grill at The Brown Hotel and went on to make four appearances as a guest chef at the James Beard House. With his rich influence and Courtney’s vast experience and leadership in the hospitality industry, their shared dream is now a reality: TANA—the couple’s Taiwanese-inspired and regionally influenced restaurant in Louisville, Kentucky, is now open.

Landing the location in the Germantown neighborhood supports the owners’ desire to evoke warmth and community all the while exposing Kentuckians to variety on their plate. The name “TANA” is an acronym for Taiwanese New American, and pays homage to a plant native to the mountains of Taiwan.

“I hope when guests arrive, they say ‘Wow, this is such a new concept’,” Ming explained. “I hope they’re surprised by the ambience. Before they leave, I want them to feel like there’s value in our restaurant, and like an experience they’ve never had in Louisville.” The atmosphere is a well-balanced, contemporary meets cozy feel. Black walnut and white oak intentionally contrast with the hunter green walls. “Courtney is great at picking the vibe and ambience,” chef Ming said. “We work well together.”

The unique, hybrid kitchen embodies what TANA is all about–marrying a traditional Taiwanese set-up with a Western kitchen vibe. Upon entering the restaurant, guests are met with a window that gives a full view of the Wok Station. The menu’s heavy Cantonese influence leads to the steaming station—specialized equipment rare to this region that cooks delicate foods like buns, dumplings, and dim sum to perfection.

There is so much to love about TANA’s familiar yet unpredictable menu–including a dedicated dumpling program. Guests can look forward to traditional pork and cabbage shuijiao, seasonal dumplings, and even ones that serve as a direct memory of Ming’s, like the beef noodle soup dumpling (which won three awards at this year’s Bourbon Classic). “It comes from two foods that defined my childhood in Taiwan,” chef Ming began. “The dumplings are filled with long-braised beef shank and beef noodle broth that’s set into aspic so it melts back into soup when steamed. You bite into it like a xiao long bao, but it tastes like a full bowl of beef noodle soup.”

In the same cadence, the cocktail menu sticks to the classics, but with a Taiwanese elevation. Take the Ube Old Fashioned, or their play on a Black Manhattan, best enjoyed at the 20-seater bar, the centerpiece to the epic space.

“We want TANA to be a familiarity that meets something you’ve never had before,” chef Ming remarked. “I want people to question the menu in a good way but somehow relate to it.”

Make your reservations here.