Within his debut cookbook,Down South + East: A Chinese American Cookbook (Abrams), Atlanta chef Ron Hsu introduces readers to his own personal culinary journey—shaped by his Chinese roots and upbringing within his family’s Georgia restaurants; his classical training as a chef and restaurateur; and of course, incorporating the flavors of the American South with those of his family’s heritage. As a child running around Hunan Village (a group of seven Chinese restaurants his parents operated for nearly three decades), Hsu gained invaluable kitchen experience long before stepping into the world of fine dining at New York’s Le Bernardin. After seven years there, he returned to Georgia as a partner in opening Lazy Betty, which earned a MICHELIN star in 2019.
Now, in Down South + East, Hsu shares the food he cooks at home—dishes like Claypot Rice with Okra and Smoked Ham Hocks and Pimiento Cheese Wontons—that seamlessly blend tradition with innovation. At its core, this cookbook is centered on connection and the powerful ways food can bring people together. We caught up with Hsu ahead of his mini Southeast tour to discuss the 75+ cookbooks on his shelves, including the one passed down from his mother that still guides him, why a simple spoon is his most essential kitchen tool, and more.
The Local Palate: What’s one big take away you want readers to pick up from your cookbook, Down South + East: A Chinese American Cookbook?
Ron Hsu: I’d love for readers to see that food can break down barriers and bring people together, that differences in people can actually be a tool for seeing similarities in one another.
TLP: Tell us about two of your favorite recipes from Down South + East: A Chinese American Cookbook.
Ron Hsu: I love the Char Siu Glazed Baby Back Ribs and the Roast Chicken and Rice Casserole. Not only are both very easy to make and taste great, they are both a great way for someone to learn how to use more “exotic” ingredients.
TLP: What was the most challenging part about writing this cookbook?
Ron Hsu: The most challenging part was just staying organized and on the same page with the entire team throughout the process. The writing and editing team was spread across Chicago, New York, and Georgia and the distance was a hard challenge to overcome. Thankfully my co-author, Hugh Amano, had a great system already in place and is a seasoned pro, so he kept me on top of everything.
TLP: Aside from your own recipes, what was your go-to snack or meal after a day of recipe testing for the book?
Ron Hsu: Just about anything not in the book! I spent so much time cooking, writing, reviewing, and editing the recipes that it was always refreshing to have something not in the book.
TLP: Approximately how many cookbooks do you own?
Ron Hsu: I own over 75 cookbooks.
TLP: What’s the oldest cookbook in your collection, and what’s the newest?
Ron Hsu: The oldest book (that I consistently reference) is Pei Mei’s Chinese Cook Book, Vol 1 published in 1969. The most recent book I purchased is The Wok by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt but the newest addition is Down South + East!
TLP: What’s the first page you turn to when reading a cookbook?
Ron Hsu: I usually like to turn to the table of contents just to get a very quick overview of the book and be able to isolate which sections interest me the most.
TLP: What three cookbooks did you turn to for inspiration when researching or starting out on this cookbook? Why?
Ron Hsu: The French Laundry by Thomas Keller. Keller’s book moved me so much because of the attention to detail and stories behind each recipe. Although the food in my book is so different, the quality and accuracy of recipe writing was something I strived toward in my book.
Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi. I loved how Ottolenghi cooks vegetables. He highlights them in a way where the vegetable really stands out. Now that I’m older and cooking for a family I’m a little more vegetable centric in my diet and the book provides tons of inspiration.
The Wok by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt. The way Lopez-Alt organizes and structures the book is very helpful for readers and cooks. He makes it easy to absorb and to follow. I also appreciate that doing different variations of the same recipe gives readers a much different level of understanding.
TLP: What is the most beloved cookbook on your shelf and why?
Ron Hsu: I love Pei Mei’s Chinese Cook Book Vol 1. Not only is it one of the oldest, it’s also one that I’ve owned the longest. It was passed down from my mother, Betty, to me. Whenever I need inspiration or redirection creatively this book helps everytime.
TLP: Have you ever been gifted a cookbook and if so, what was the book and what do you love about it?
Ron Hsu: Another book I love is On the Line by my mentor Eric Ripert. My time working at Le Bernardin was incredibly special and informative for my career and this book captures that moment for me. Seeing my name along with fellow chefs in the book brings back so many memories, lessons, and experiences as if I were living them again.
TLP: If you were to gift a cookbook you love to a family member or friend, what would it be?
Ron Hsu: I’d love to gift my cookbook. It’s a cookbook of delicious and interesting recipes but it’s also a story of love, acceptance, and inclusiveness all on the backdrop of hospitality.
TLP: Favorite cook-friendly bookstore in the Southeast and why?
Ron Hsu: To be honest I haven’t visited many in the Southeast but I do love Kitchen Arts and Letters in New York City. They have an incredible selection of original prints and signed copies!
TLP: What is your can’t-live-without cooking tool?
Ron Hsu: A spoon…it’s so rudimentary but also so helpful. The most important thing a spoon allows you to do is to taste your product. Other than sourcing quality ingredients, tasting a dish during the preparation process and right before serving it to ensure seasoning is paramount.
TLP: What’s your go-to spice?
Ron Hsu: Chinese 5 spice powder. I use it in sweet and savory items as well as eastern and western dishes. It goes well on so many things!
TLP: What five things are always in your fridge?
Ron Hsu: Kimchi from PN Rice Cakes on Buford Highway, carrots, cabbage, milk, and chili crisp.
Find Ron Hsu’s recipe for Pickled Gulf Shrimp with Coconut Milk below. Look for Hsu on book tour this spring in Charleston in April and Birmingham in May.
Recipe and image courtesy of Down South + East by Ron Hsu
recipe 
yields
2 servings as an appetizer
8 ounces (225 g) medium (36/40) shrimp (about 18 to 20 shrimp), shelled and deveined
3⁄4 cup (180 ml) rice vinegar
1⁄4 cup (30 g) thinly sliced red onion 1 lime, sliced into thin rounds
1⁄4 cup (60 ml) canola oil
3 sprigs cilantro
2 sprigs Thai basil
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and crushed with the side of a chef’s knife
1 red Fresno chile (optional)
1⁄2 teaspoon sugar
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄3 cup (75 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
ingredients
steps
- In a quart-size (960 ml) mason jar (or other container with a tight-fitting lid), combine the shrimp and vinegar and shake well.
- Refrigerate for 20 minutes, then add the onion, lime, oil, cilantro, basil, ginger, chile (if using), sugar, and salt, shake well, and refrigerate in the sealed jar overnight.
- The next day, add the coconut milk, shake well, and let the flavors marry for about 30 minutes or up to 1 week before serving.
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