In the Field

Taste the South | Listen

Cover of the Taste the State cookbook

Part food history, part cookbook, and part compendium of somewhat-bizarre bygone recipes, Taste the State is a deep dive into South Carolina’s foodways, complete with dozens of recipes from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and a few contemporary versions sprinkled throughout. While some may not inspire you to revive centuries-old traditions, they provide an unparalleled understanding of the state’s food history and how some of the dishes we enjoy today have evolved with the times.

For example, a section on pilau—a risotto-like dish also known as pilaf, pillau, perlo, perloo, and purlieu—includes recipes for versions you’d often see on menus around Charleston today, studded with chicken or crab, and classic variations like hoppin’ john. But it also includes options for dove pilau and fish kedgeree (made with “one-half box of shredded codfish”). Apparently, squirrel pilau was also a common occurrence according to historical records, though no recipes have survived.

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Date Published: 10.02.24

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