“My favorite thing in the world to do is host a dinner party,” says Kelleanne Jones, half of Free Reign Restaurants’ ownership team and designer par excellence. And that’s exactly what it feels like she’s doing at Honeysuckle Rose. She and Ryan Jones, her husband and Free Reign’s co-owner, began as restaurateurs in Connecticut, where their tasting menu was hugely popular; Honeysuckle Rose is their third concept in the Charleston area and the one that draws most heavily from that experience.
Although they seek to create “a unique vibe” with all their concepts, the Joneses didn’t plan on opening a tasting-menu restaurant until they saw the space, a 30-seat corner spot tucked away from walking traffic, several blocks north of the popular Cannonborough-Elliotborough district. “We knew it had to be a destination restaurant,” Kelleanne says.
Since opening, the restaurant has been staffed primarily by Free Reign’s executive team. Kelleanne manages front of house; director of culinary Tito Marino cohelms the kitchen with Ryan, and beverage and hospitality director Shane Meszaros keeps the wine flowing, while head pastry chef Heather Hutton turns out exquisite desserts. The result is what Kelleanne calls “a roomful of talent” that puts out an eight-course tasting menu Wednesday through Saturday, with an ever-changing roster of the highest-quality ingredients.
“We are seeing a lot of repeat guests,” says Kelleanne. Ryan adds, “We’ve had some groups fly in for the weekend just to have dinner at Honeysuckle. Just being so young and such a small little restaurant, it’s cool to see.”
The menu changes frequently, influenced by access to the highest-quality ingredients available. Constants over time have been a housemade popover with condiments, a pasta, and a Wagyu preparation; seasonal seafood ranges from dry-aged bluefin toro crudo in warmer months to Nantucket Bay scallops in winter; pastas from a carbonara interpretation with rich Mangalitsa ham to an octopus cavatelli.
Beverage pairings are as thoughtful as the meal. “I avoid the trends,” says Meszaros. “I want to do things that are not seeing a lot of love.” Examples of that range from underutilized grapes, such as zibibbo, one of the least-grown varietals in the world, to wines so popular they’ve fallen out of favor, such as pinot grigio: “I went out of my way and I found some of the best pinot grigio I could offer just to showcase that there are higher, elevated wines,” Meszaros says.
One of the most unique aspects of the menu is that it is customizable to any dietary preference. The kitchen will accommodate anything from vegan and vegetarian to gluten-free to allergies to specific ingredients such as onion or pineapple. Just as a gracious host is able to accommodate the dietary restrictions and preferences of their guests, the team is willing to pivot on the menu nightly.
The willingness to accommodate is all part of a clear generosity of spirit present among the team. “We all work our day jobs at the other restaurants and we do all the behind the scenes,” says Kelleanne. “But when we show up at Honeysuckle for service—” She gives a sigh of happiness. “It’s not work. We’re having people in our house.”