You may know Alon Shaya for his Israeli cooking—that’s the focus at his other restaurants, Saba in New Orleans and Safta in Denver. But when he was tapped to open a ground-floor restaurant at the Four Seasons, in the heart of New Orleans, he decided to embrace the task by paying homage to the grand, fine-dining classics of New Orleans. Miss River is a restaurant he says “feels like it could last 100 years here,” meaning the look, feel, uniforms, and menu will never go out of style.
The space is built for celebration, starting at the vestibule, where a glassed-in closet of Champagne and sparkling wines greets you, chilled and ready to be popped. Just beyond that, there’s a collection of celebratory headpieces and glassware from Alon’s wife, Emily, who once owned an antique furnishings event rentals company. Art deco-era tiling and a rose-quartz-topped bar lead to the dining room beyond, which is punctuated by low-slung leather chairs, banquettes, and a server and sommelier station at the center of the room. Drink carts and another glassed-in wine room hint to the current of good beverages to be found on the menu, while striking, umbrella-like light fixtures remind you that this spot is rooted in a city where a Second Line might show up on any given corner.
The menu is packed with Shaya’s version of New Orleans’ classics: duck and andouille gumbo, boudin with crackers and mustard, red beans and rice with fried chicken, a damn fine muffuletta, and redfish courtbouillon. He pays respect to the numerous immigrant communities that have populated New Orleans as well, including with a vegetable green curry studded with Louisiana pecans.
Open for lunch and dinner, the space becomes a hot spot on Friday afternoons, when long lunches turn into happy hour, with guests spilling out to the hotel’s Chandelier Bar, where Shaya also oversees the menu (look for pickled crab claws and sweet-crunchy cracklins). Whenever you go, expect that it will turn into an occasion—just as it does at New Orleans’ other unforgettable dining rooms.
Try this Hummus Recipe from Alon Shaya
