Noko’s combination of wood-fired smoke and Japanese flavors and dishes results in a dining experience that can be summed up in one word: balanced.
But it’s so much more delicious than that. Executive chef/partner Dung “Junior” Vo’s flavor combinations in dishes like wood-fired edamame are intense and even heady but never overpowering. The char from the oven enhances a dish simply seasoned with sea salt and just the right touch of truffle—it’ll have you licking salt off your fingers.
In the other direction, the hamachi crudo is crisp and bright with citrus, finishing with umami and a hint of spice. It’s acts as a palate cleanser and a great complement to the smokiness of other dishes, and pairs quite nicely with Sword of the Sun sake bringing green melon, juniper, and cucumber flavors. The only downside is that it’s not a dish you’ll want to share.
Other small plates not to miss: The tuna crispy rice, a fan favorite, is served like nigiri and topped with Serrano slices. The Korean hot wings with gochujang barbecue, a citrus pepper rub, and yuzu ranch for dipping are crusted with white and black sesame seeds, making them irresistibly crispy.
Smaller plates come with generous portions, but save room. The grilled ginger chicken and wagyu brisket are great options, along with the market catch—but don’t miss out on the veggie plate, an incredibly tasty combination of roasted seasonal vegetables (such as squash, zucchini, tomato, and mushroom) with tofu cubes in a featherlight green coconut curry topped with sesame and sunflower seeds. It’s a delight of vegetal sweetness mixed with smokiness, along with fun texture contrasts.
By now you’re probably stuffed, but don’t worry, dessert is worth it. Coconut cake with warm caramel, wood-charred pineapple, and hints of lime is crafted by Vo himself and offers the same level of balance as his savory dishes, acid, fat, and sugar all blending into a creamy cake with crispy toasted coconut. There are also fun collabs with regional purveyors: The “Brookie” with HiFi Cookies combines layers brownie and black sesame cookie with vanilla ice cream and miso caramel, while Black Box Ice Cream sources decadent flavors like ube.
Noko recently opened for brunch with a menu blending the South into dishes like Japanese chicken and waffles, a brisket french dip, and loaded fries with furikake and brown gravy.
