Xo Brasserie

At first, the menu at Xo Brasserie in Charleston may look familiar. There’s wonton soup, an eggroll, crab rangoon, and a host of entrees that harken back to the “chef specialties” at old school Chinese restaurants. 

But a closer read reveals that something else is going on, something just familiar enough to get diners to dig deeper.

Owner Herman Ng states on the restaurant’s website, “I wanted Chinese food that didn’t apologize for itself.” His blend of Cantonese and Sichuan cuisine, expertly prepared and served in an elegant, moody dining room, paired with wildly creative cocktails, leaves very little room for comparison—really, for anything except immersion in the moment. 

Speaking of cocktails, there are treats like the Xo manhattan with a house vermouth blend and Chinese five spice; the Huajioa negroni with Sichuan peppercorn-infused gin, Cocchi Americano, and Suze (a French bitter); and delicious mocktail options like the Wild Current with wildflower tea, soursop, Thai basil, and black pepper juice. Don’t overlook the small but sophisticated wine and sake list either.

When I asked the server for menu recommendations, assuring him that I was “fine with spice,” he responded that very little on the menu is spicy. And truly, everything tastes like the point of the Sichuan flavors is not to overwhelm but to enhance. The green salad with Sichuan peach vinaigrette on the small plates is an unmissable dish. Then there are delightfully unique options like the youtiao burrata, with the eponymous fried dough and a sweet and lightly spicy flavor profile from serrano, Sichuan peppercorns, and honey. 

The “Build a Bao” platter with char siu pork belly and accompaniments is a great shared appetizer with an element of whimsy, and the crab rangoon with blue crab or the shrimp toast with citrus plum jam offer echoes of the Lowcountry. If you find yourself running out of room, make a date to head to the bar Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday from 5 to 6 p.m. for Dumpling Hour with $10 cocktails and $10 dumplings.

Be aware that two entrees have limited availability: the local whole fish, and the five spice honey roast duck, which should absolutely not be missed. It’s a half duck served several ways, including a perfectly cooked breast and a leg meat confit, which can be tucked into a wrap with Bibb lettuce and seasonal duck sauce, such as black pepper cardamom rhubarb.

Another standout is the Chilean sea bass, marinated 48 hours in a miso broth until it all but melts in your mouth, and served with savory gai lan. Undeniably a healthy meal, but it tastes every bit an indulgence.

And speaking of indulgences, if you weren’t a savory dessert fan before, you will be after the Nutella mousse, a Chinese five spice hazelnut mousse served with strawberry, blackberry, and gooseberry reduction, dehydrated cake crumble, and a black sesame tulle.