“Continuing the culinary heritage of Emeril’s is a responsibility I take very seriously, and one I am honored and excited to work on every day.” —E.J. Lagasse
Restaurants come and go. But in the South, some have been thriving for decades, keeping their doors open through hurricanes, recessions, and the pandemic and becoming landmarks in their cities. As they celebrate milestone anniversaries, five restaurants reflect on their history of Southern hospitality.
Herbsaint has fed New Orleanians French-Southern cuisine for more than 25 years. “It seems like a lifetime ago; in restaurant years it was a lifetime ago,” says executive chef Donald Link. “We have had a lot of talent that has come through those doors.” This includes chef de cuisine Tyler Spreen, whom Link credits with adding “exciting new menu items” like the bluefin tuna tartare with housemade togarashi, joining classic dishes like the duck confit and gumbo.
On August 29, 2005, Hurricane Katrina slammed into the city. Herbsaint reopened after five weeks of hard work. “The staff and friends that I wanted to stand by and [help] rebuild did the same for me,” he says. “It was a defining moment for a lot of us and especially for me.”
When it comes to standing the test of time, Link says, “there really is no secret. I have always believed in hiring the best people, using the best ingredients, and keeping the food delicious, simple, and consistent.”
Just around the corner is Emeril’s, which recently hit 35 years. The Louisiana restaurant, opened by culinary legend Emeril Lagasse, closed briefly when Katrina hit. Chef Emeril, who helped raise more than $1 million in disaster relief, led the kitchen until his son E.J. took the reins in 2022. “Continuing the culinary heritage of Emeril’s is a responsibility I take very seriously,” says E.J., now co-owner, “and one I am honored and excited to work on every day.”
Artistic plates like John Dory decorated with crawfish and foie gras in an oyster stew grace the menu, along with old favorites like banana cream pie and New Orleans barbecue shrimp (served at The Wine Bar at Emeril’s), which E.J. says has been offered “since my dad opened the restaurant in 1990.” Thirty-five years later, Emeril’s is still making history: the restaurant was awarded two MICHELIN stars in 2025, making E.J. the youngest chef ever to lead a two-star kitchen.
Mary MacKenzie opened Mary Mac’s Tea Room in Atlanta in 1945, and the Southern restaurant still welcomes customers today. “When we reflect on 80 years, words like tradition, authenticity, legacy, warmth, and genuine hospitality come to mind,” says Chad Reynolds, director of operations. “We approach everything by leading with our heart. We cook with a passion—that’s part of who we are.”
At a time when the restaurant scene still largely excluded women, the tearoom was a way for MacKenzie to enter the culinary space. She sold Mary Mac’s in 1962, and ownership has changed hands since, the space growing from one dining room to six. One thing that remains the same: “Our fried chicken has been on the menu for all eight decades,” says Reynolds. Today, Mary Mac’s is the last remaining tearoom in Atlanta, a peek into culinary history.
Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint opened in 2006 in Nolensville, Tennessee. Pat Martin, owner and pitmaster, is proud of how far they’ve come in the last 20 years, now with 10 locations across the Southeast. “It means a lot to me,” he says. “It’s incredibly humbling and I’m grateful every day that we’re able to keep the art of West Tennessee whole hog alive.” Traditional West Tennessee whole hog, which slow-cooks a pig over live fire, takes up to 24 hours—but pays off big-time on the menu. Martin’s favorite is the pulled pork sandwich topped with Jack’s Creek sauce and slaw—“the way God intended.”
Martin credits his team and the community for the success of Martin’s Bar-B-Que, as well as “true Southern hospitality” that goes beyond smiling at the register. “Our guests can expe- rience that intention and passion in the quality of food we put in front of them,” he says.
In Meridian, Mississippi, one restaurant has outlasted all the rest: Weidmann’s, established in 1870. “I think that the success of Weidmann’s is due to the legacy of those who have gone before us and kept the doors open through the tough times,” says owner Charles Frazier, who is one of those people. He purchased the restaurant shortly after it closed in 2010, renovating it and reintroducing affordable, classic dishes. Today, menu standouts are the Redfish 1870, served over a bed of Hoppin’ John, and the boudin-stuffed pork chop.
The restaurant, which recently hit 155 years, was planning to celebrate its sesquicentennial when Covid arrived. But Weidmann’s bounced back, and today serves their small community and those passing through—a tradition that harks back to the 1930s when Meridian was a rail hub. “Many frequent travelers on the train would walk the two blocks to Weidmann’s, get some [black bottom] pie, and get back on the train for the remainder of the journey,” says Frazier.
The journey continues for these Southern institutions as they celebrate decades of service. Here’s to many more.
5 Menu Items to Order When Visiting
Herbsaint’s Muscovy Duck Leg Confit
This tender duck leg is plated over dirty rice and greens in a citrus sauce.
Emeril’s Banana Cream Pie
Save room for this classic topped with basil and chocolate shavings.
Mary Mac’s Tea Room’s Fried Chicken
The recipe for this golden fried chicken hasn’t changed in 80 years.
Martin’s Bar- B-Que Joint’s Pulled Pork
Dig into a pulled pork shoulder sandwich loaded with slaw.
Weidmann’s World Famous Black Bottom Pie
Each slice is filled with custard, but the best part is the eponymous chocolate crust.
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Tate Jacaruso
Tate Jacaruso loves celebrating Southern food, travel, and culture as associate editor at the Local Palate. She is based in Charleston and is currently making her way through every bowl of pasta and oyster on the half shell in town. Her work has appeared in Charleston Living Magazine and CHStoday.
