Well Preserved: A Chef’s Home Guide to Preservation

With his cookbook Cured, San Antonio chef Steve McHugh has flipped the script on preservation being more of a chef’s domain than a home cook’s.

“We tend to look at a lot of preservation as overly complicated science,” McHugh says. “But I always tell people, this literally was survival for folks. Our grandmothers weren’t scientists. This is just nature, and utilizing nature to our advantage.”

Using elements as familiar as acid and fat, and methods of preservation from freezing and drying to curing and fermenting, you can use McHugh’s preservation recipes to build a unique fall charcuterie board, any part of which can be simplified by subbing in store-bought ingredients. Here are a few of our favorites.

Acid

Cured’s House Mustard

This recipe blends yellow and brown mustard seeds with the light sweetness of honey and brown sugar, rounding out the flavor profile of any charcuterie board. Be sure to begin recipe two weeks before using.

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Pickled “Pimento” Cheese

“I didn’t try pimento cheese until I was 20, so perhaps you’ll forgive me this slight variation on the classic, which replaces the traditional pimentos with pickles. The acid from the pickles cuts through the creamy cheese spread for an unexpectedly tasty treat. Do be sure you take the time to grate your own cheddar for this recipe. (You can also grate cheese in a food processor if you’re in a hurry.)”

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Ferment

Twice-Baked Firecracker Saltines

A dose of hot sauce and some time in the oven is all it takes to achieve the most satisfying pedestal for all dipping accompaniments.

Pro tip: Join our Cookbook Club to gain exclusive access to McHugh’s fermented hot sauce and pickle recipes, along with an in-depth Q&A with the chef.

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Sugar

Peach Jam

“I find that almost-overripe fruit that is just starting to bruise makes the sweetest, most flavorful jam. All jams can be strained through a fine-mesh strainer if you prefer your jams without pulp.”

Pro tip: Cookbook Club members can find the recipe for McHugh’s Mix-and-Match Jam Cocktail at thelocalpalate.com

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Fat

Garlic Confit

McHugh transforms garlic into a tender, flavorful dipping experience with his unique garlic confit. “Use the smallest vessel you can to save how much oil is necessary to cover your ingredients. Both the oil and the vegetable can be used in dishes, and the recipes here make spectacular use of both. Just make sure you store these preserves in the refrigerator and use a clean utensil anytime you dig into them.”

Confit Variations
3 heads fennel, halved lengthwise, fronds trimmed, with 3 sprigs thyme, 3 sprigs tarragon, 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and zest of 1
orange at 275 degrees for 2 hours

2 pints whole cherry tomatoes with 5 fresh basil leaves, 1 sprig rosemary, 3 garlic cloves, ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and zest of 1 orange at 250 degrees for 1 hour

1½ pounds peeled carrots, parsnips, or turnips with 2 halved serrano peppers, zest of 1 orange, 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, and 1 teaspoon of salt at 275 degrees for 3 hours

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Cure

Bresaola

McHugh introduces a bold Italian flavor to the classic charcuterie board. “Bresaola is an Italian air-dried beef that typically would cure for a few days and then dry for months. My version is a bit faster than that. Never use previously frozen meat for cured meats, as they don’t take on the salt properly.”

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Cured: Cooking with Ferments, Pickles, Preserves & More

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