From Tandy Wilson of City House in Nashville, Tennessee
1 head cauliflower, cored and chopped into florets
½ cup olive oil
½ onion, grated
5 garlic cloves, chopped
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 anchovy fillets
½ cup white wine
1 cheese rind (Wilson uses Grana Padano)
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, crushed by hand
Salt and black pepper
2 pounds fresh rigatoni or 1 pound dried rigatoni
¼ cup olive oil
1 cup pecorino romano, grated
Make the sauce: In a saucepot over medium heat, sweat cauliflower in olive oil until tender and translucent. Add onion and sauté until soft, then add garlic and cook for 3 minutes, stirring regularly. Follow with red pepper flakes, oregano, and anchovies, and cook 2 minutes. Pour in wine and add cheese rind, cooking for 5 more minutes.
Add tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes, stirring regularly and seasoning to taste.
Make the pasta: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with enough salt that it tastes like seawater. Add pasta and cook until al dente. Reserve 1-2 cups of pasta water before draining. Return drained pasta to pot along with 2 cups sauce and ½-1 cup pasta water (or more if you prefer a thinner sauce) and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Toss with olive oil and ½ cup grated pecorino. Top with remaining pecorino and serve.