Little Bursts of Summertime

Blackberry bushes fill with fruit during summer in North Carolina

In the summer months, Olivero’s dishes are dotted with local blackberries. The downtown Wilmington, North Carolina, restaurant, headed by chef-owner Sunny Gerhart, is putting this sweet and tart fruit through its paces. “We like to use them in different ways, like fresh, pickled, and grilled,” he says. The fruit, which is not technically a berry, is usually ready to be picked in North Carolina in late July and August. Named for Gerhart’s grandfather, with a menu that reflects the chef’s Spanish, Italian, and New Orleans roots, Olivero opened last fall but first used blackberries during summer pop-ups ahead of the restaurant’s opening. Gerhart says he likes to incorporate them in dishes “around the savory and sweet side” like in a buttermilk panna cotta with pickled blackberries “adding some nice acidity and juiciness,” or balanced with cheeses like gorgonzola. The restaurant’s woodfire grill will likely come into play, he says, adding a smoky flavor to the dishes.

Start With a Salad

Olivero’s colorful beet salad with pickled blackberries, Campari vinaigrette, and gorgonzola balances bitter, sweet, and savory. “The pickled blackberries add little bursts of summertime,” says Gerhart.

Add Smoke From the Grill

A custard-y, Basque-style cheesecake with smoked blackberry jam and Biscoff caramel is Olivero’s take on the classic dessert. The blackberry jam adds something savory and smoky, which, he says, “is a huge part of what we do at Olivero.”

Finish With Olive Oil

The restaurant’s buttermilk panna cotta is a “bright, acid-forward, creamy” dish with pickled blackberry, blackberry jam, and olive oil cake crumbs. “Panna cotta is one of those incredibly simple but utterly delicious treats that I love,” says Gerhart.

Pickled Blackberries

ingredients

• 1 quart blackberries
  

• 10 whole black peppercorns
  

• 1 whole pod star anise
  

• 1 cinnamon stick
  

• 10 whole allspice berries
  

• 2 cups of red wine vinegar
  

• ½ cup of water
  

• toasted spices
  

• 2 teaspoons of salt
  

• ¼ cup of granulated sugar
  

• 1 small knob of fresh ginger root
  

• Juice and zest of 1 orange

steps

1. Start by preheating the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Place 10 whole black peppercorns, 1 whole pod star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, and 10 whole allspice berries on a sheet pan and lightly toast until you start to smell their aroma, about 5 minutes.
3. In a 2-quart stainless steel pot, combine 2 cups of red wine vinegar, ½ cup of water, toasted spices, 2 teaspoons of salt, ¼ cup of granulated sugar, 1 small knob of fresh ginger root, and the juice and zest of 1 orange. Bring to a boil.
4. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, being mindful that it doesn’t reduce too much. Remove from heat and allow pickling brine to cool to room temperature.
5. Place 1 quart of blackberries in a heatproof bowl. Using a fine mesh strainer, strain pickle brine directly over blackberries (discard spices) and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Keep Reading

Key Ingredient

6 Desserts Where Summer Fruits Shine

The OG fruit bake has variations galore. Armed with spices, herbs,
 and fun flours, baker Justin Burke-Samson spins them modern.

Key Ingredient

A Better Butter Bean

Whether you want a light and airy dish or a hearty meal, butter beans are the perfect Southern staple to accompany any recipe.

Key Ingredient

Florida’s Stone Crab Season

Hailed for its flavor, the Florida stone crab captures Clearwater’s community and dominates local fishing industry and the city’s menus each stone crab season.