Spend a Day on the Set of Top Chef Season 23

When you get an email asking if you’d like to take part in filming an episode of Top Chef, you clear your calendar. At least you do if you’re a fan who’s watched every episode of all previous 22 seasons— maybe even multiple times? So that’s what I did last August— hopped on a plane for a whirlwind trip to Charlotte for a day of taping. 

The instructions were simple: Be ready for a 4-plus hour day of eating, dress appropriately, be prepared to be honest, and don’t breathe a word. Otherwise, I was told next to nothing. 

I arrived at the shoot location (since the episode is airing tonight, I won’t give too much away) and immediately ran into several other food journalists. We would be dining with a handful of others for an elimination challenge and would be served multiple courses spread over the course of the afternoon. The production team was huge with camera operators, runners, and producers busily prepping the space. I was struck by how gracious and attentive the production team was, clearly explaining what would happen and making sure everyone stuck to the ground rules: no phones, no speaking too loudly, avoid looking directly at the judges and contestants, and when they put the camera in your face, be honest. 

We were ushered onto the set and the journalists were all seated together—our table of eight was full of highly opinionated media personalities who were experts at critiquing the food in front of us…and we were hungry. Which was good because we were about to go through 12 courses. Judges Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons and host Kristen Kish walked by, casually heading to their table, with chef Greg Collier and his wife Subrina, and Houston chef Tristen Epps (last season’s winner), among them as guest chefs. 

Much of making television is hurrying up to wait. So we waited and speculated on what may be coming up this season. (At the time, we weren’t yet aware that North Carolina chefs like Durham’s Oscar Diaz of Little Bull and Charlotte’s Brittany Cochran of Stagioni were in the mix.) 

When, at last, the dishes started rolling, it was as entertaining as it looks on television with dishes ranging from elevated, balanced, and well-executed to others that were clearly a struggle. We were given a menu and more than a few dishes didn’t match their descriptions, making us wonder if the dreaded “time’s up, utensils down” timer had bested those contestants. In between dishes, an unassuming microphone was placed before us, cameras pointed at our faces, as we were asked to honestly dissect the dishes. The table was ready for it—sound bites flew, opinions were unflinching. How much ends up in the final episode will be revealed tonight. But being in it felt as high stakes as the competition we were witnessing.  

With 12 contestants still in the game, the season has a long way to go. Personally, I’m rooting for our Southern chefs as well as all of the guest judges and businesses that the show is shining a spotlight on, from Greg and Subrina Collier to the team behind Supplerland to past Top Chef contestant Jamie Lynch of Church and Union to the heat-seeking farmer behind PuckerButt Farms. However it plays out, spending a day on set made it clear that everyone on the production, host, judges, and chefs included, was hard at work giving the Carolinas food scene its due. 

Judge’s Table

We asked Top Chef host Kristen Kish and judges Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons to share their thoughts on the Carolina food scene, how the show remains relevant, and what they were snacking on in between takes. 

Gail Simmons: Charlotte is a very fast-growing city, and I think with that comes a lot of change. And more and more I’ve been hearing from chefs, not just in Charlotte, but all around the Carolinas and surrounding states that there’s so much going on here, that it really feels like they’re having a culinary moment. 

Tom Colicchio: I spent a lot of time in the Lowcountry because I used to consult with the Kiawah Island Club for about 15 years. And, look, there’s always been really good food here, going back 30, 40, 50 years. And now you have chefs trained in French technique, and that really adapts to the Southern kitchen. And, you’re seeing so many young Black chefs stepping forward, claiming back their food, and being proud of that. Those are just a few reasons you’re really seeing a shift now and seeing Southern food become more creative. Plus, whenever there’s a good farming culture, especially small family farms, there’s a good food culture, and that turns into a good restaurant culture. 

Kristen Kish: I think [Charlotte] was primed for this. There are so many great cities that Top Chef can go to and this city has been ready. It’s a place with great food and great storytelling and amazing chefs doing a phenomenal job, but also a place with amazing history. 

Gail Simmons: With Top Chef, we’re showing that there’s incredible food in every part of this country, and there are roots and traditions and immigrant pathways and stories to be told from the ingredients everywhere we go. I think that is a big reason that the show has found so much success. And the other is the chefs. They’re incredible. They are really the backbone of this show, and what it’s always been about—finding talent that are on the brink of greatness, who have incredible training, and who are incredibly passionate and creative and young enough to still have the biggest moments of their careers ahead of them. I mean, it’s been 23 seasons of turning out extraordinary talent who have gone on to become leaders in the industry. We gave them the platform, and they ran with it. 

Kristen Kish: I think it’s the fans that give this show its longevity. The fans appreciate the natural drama and I think they like getting a peek into how a chef thinks. I feel like this audience, not just on television, but also in restaurants, are really intrigued by who’s cooking their food now. And for Top Chef, you have to have a wealth of knowledge and different ways of looking at food. Because, of course, you always want to cook your own food, but you can’t just do that, because sometimes those dishes don’t fit the challenge. And the whole point of Top Chef is to play into both. It’s not just about cooking great food. It’s about exercising the creativity and really leaning into the challenges. The most memorable and successful chefs are the ones that can really hone in on showing people what their food looks like in the challenge. That, and you have to have the kind of personality that doesn’t get rattled easily.

Gail Simmons: We had a beautiful meal at Kindred. And I loved Supperland, too. I love grits. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, sweet, savory. I always have them in my freezer, but you know, they’re better here. Also, this city is so fried chicken obsessed. It’s wild. So I’m eating a lot of fried chicken. 

Tom Colicchio: Kristen is a real candy freak, a huge sweet tooth. She sources candy for all of us to eat at the judge’s table. I think these [pointing to a bag] are some special edition candy.

Kristen Kish: It’s true. If it’s not Nerds, it’s really any gummies. I like a little sour gummy. It gets me through. But I’m also a big fan of pimento cheese and collard greens. 

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