A Seafood-First Trip From Florida to Alabama

This Gulf seafood road trip thinks outside the fryer

Who doesn’t love fried seafood? No doubt about it, dredging a piece of fish in seasoned cornmeal and flour and frying it crispy in hot oil ticks all the boxes. In the South, eating fried any kind of seafood is nothing short of a birthright.

The question is—especially when vacationing in beachfront towns like Pensacola, Florida, and Orange Beach and Gulf Shores, Alabama— is that all there is? For Gulf seafood lovers, it’s good to know that a sand-swept road trip from the Panhandle to the Alabama coast dishes up not just the freshest seafood, but some of the most creative ways to enjoy it.

Pensacola

Gulf to Table

The Panhandle’s gateway to Gulf seafood, Pensacola is a city that surprises. The walkable downtown is rich with culture, nightlife, and pocket neighborhoods. There is a deep vein of military and aviation history. And the beaches? Well, those powder-fine sand swaths are some of the best in Florida. All that oceanfront guarantees that fresh, local fish and shellfish are prevalent.

Eat

Mano Panino: Make the old Gothic Revival Sacred Heart Hospital building in the leafy East Hill neighborhood a first stop along the way. Here, at A Mano Panino, a tiny café in the hospital’s former ER intake area, chef Alex Lamonte channels his fine-dining chops to create Italian pressed sandwiches on housemade schiacciata bread. Besides imported meats and cheeses, Lamonte poaches primal cuts of local tuna in olive oil, dressing the sandwich with caper aïoli, tapenade, and giardiniera.

Lamonte Gelato: Alex and his wife and partner, Ashley, also own Lamonte Gelato, down one of the old building’s many hallways, an exceptional take on the authentic Italian frozen treat in flavors like olive oil and fig and stracciatella.

The Fish House: Grab a seat dockside overlooking the bay at The Fish House, which features Brandon Smith’s sustainable local Grayson Bay oysters, smaller and sweeter than wild Gulf oysters. Besides its vast wine list, the restaurant is known for grilled or blackened catch of the day and the rich specialty Grits à Ya Ya: sauteed shrimp with spinach, mushrooms, and bacon over smoked gouda grits.

Pearl & Horn: Chef George Lazi, who got his culinary training in his native Republic of Georgia, owns the Pearl & Horn, a high-style fine-dining spot with an emphasis on local seafood. The chef is crazy about redfish collars, a tender delicacy served with his spicy Georgian adjika sauce made with chiles, herbs, and olive oil. Local oysters baked with garlic butter and parmesan or served Rockefeller style, and Gulf scallops grilled with orange miso and served with buttery spaghetti squash on the side are a few more menu highlights. If you’re flying in or out of town, the chef’s George Bistro is the absolute best place five minutes from the airport for inspired seafood.

Agapi Bistro: The compact, lively Agapi Bistro from chef Gus Silivos in East Pensacola spotlights Mediterranean flavors along with Gulf seafood. Silivos offers a four-course chef’s blind tasting, a great deal for $75. Don’t miss the house specialty, a line-caught scamp, in the grouper family, served with jumbo lump crab-meat and a creamy risotto.

The Grand Marlin: At the beach, seafood doesn’t get fresher than at The Grand Marlin, a modern fish house with Santa Rosa Bay views. Go for lunch and enjoy the daily catch, juicy and blackened, on an incredible sandwich or dressed Baja style in a solid trio of fish tacos. Grand Marlin’s crabcake, chunky with local blue crabmeat, is sauteed, not deep fried, and better for it.

Bonsai: For a different take, head to the second floor of the Hilton Pensacola Beach, where chefs at Bonsai transform Gulf catch into eye-popping Japanese dishes in a no-frills setting. The restaurant offers an omakase option, asking diners to trust the chef for a multi-course tasting priced at $120. Or simply order a la carte and splurge on the exceptionally tender slices of wagyu, guaranteed to. dazzle the carnivores at the table.

Stay

The Pensacola Beach Resort: For impressive beachfront access and views in a comfy setting, overnight at The Pensacola Beach Resort on Santa Rosa Island, a transformed former Margaritaville with clean, modern interiors and balconies. A mesmerizing pounding surf sets the stage for a wealth of freshly caught seafood options.

And a Nightcap

For a downtown nightcap, stop by The Florida Room, where house-distilled spirits power potent cocktails in a Miami Vice-themed cocktail lounge. Or pick up the phone outside for entrance into Sister Hen, a spectacular speakeasy downstairs at the church-turned Lily Hall Hotel. At the beach, the retro Sandshaker Lounge is a delish dive that attracts local regulars for tropical specials and live music.

Alabama

Gulf Adventures

Across a state line but only about 45 minutes away from Pensacola, the 32-mile Alabama Gulf Coast doesn’t put on airs—unless those airs are salt-sprayed and smell like sunscreen. Fans know that this stretch of Southern coastline embraces its inner honkytonk. Yes, there are powdery beaches and waves for frolicking. But there are also lots of souvenir shops, minigolf courses, and family-friendly activities. Then there’s the beloved Flora-Bama, a storied dive bar complex with a view, best enjoyed with a frozen Bushwacker in hand.

Eat

Zeke’s: Pristine seafood comes with the territory. Begin the adventure at Zeke’s in Orange Beach, a modern, four-year-old restaurant on Perdido Beach Boulevard. Start with local oysters and peel-and-eat Gulf shrimp, or splurge on a seafood tower for a vertical feast that includes everything from lobster tail to tuna tartare and oysters. Check out the marina views along with toothsome bites of blackened Gulf cobia served with dirty rice and creamy crawfish gravy. For anglers just back from one of Zeke’s many charter fishing options, the Hook & Cook sends your catch to the kitchen, serving that just-caught blackened or grilled trophy with coleslaw, family style, for $22 per person.

DeSoto’s Seafood Kitchen: In nearby Gulf Shores, Royal Red shrimp is a house specialty at DeSoto’s Seafood Kitchen, a family-owned down-home seafooder since 2000. Royal Reds are caught in cooler, deeper Gulf waters and are prized for their lobster-like flavor and sweet meat, tastiest dipped in drawn butter. The broiled seafood platter keeps the flavor of locally caught flounder, shrimp, and scallops front and center. Or try the blackened yellowfin tuna, cooked perfectly to order, medium-rare. The staff treats guests like family—another reason this place is a charmer.

Big Fish: Always fresh, never frozen is the mantra at Big Fish, a wildly popular restaurant that out-swanks its shopping-center setting. Hand-trimmed amberjack, grouper, golden tile, mahi mahi, red snapper, triple tail, and swordfish are just a few of the locally caught options. Get that fish any which way, including sauteed and bronzed, a gentler alternative to blackening, seared in a hot pan to get a crust without too much spice. Or consider Big Fish style, which tops the gorgeous fillet with scallions and ginger in a sherry soy broth, served with spinach and jasmine rice on the side.

Woodside Restaurant: For breakfast or lunch, dip into the Southern-inspired Woodside Restaurant for a Cajun shrimp omelet or a plate of barbecue. The restaurant is located in Gulf State Park, home to some 28 miles of accessible Hugh S. Branyon Back-country Trails. Pass through multiple ecosystems, from hardwood swamps to freshwater marshes, the perfect way to walk or bike off that hot-honey-smoked chicken biscuit. There are free bike-share racks outside for riders 16 and up. Download the Bloom app on your phone to start pedaling.

Stay

Timberline Glamping Orange Beach, located where Orange Beach meets Gulf State Park, is just minutes from bike and walking trails and a short stroll from the Gulf. Each of the large climate-controlled canvas tents offers divinely comfortable queen or king beds and bunks ideal for families and pals’ getaways. Amenities include ensuite bath and shower, an outdoor firepit, and a coffee maker and small fridge. The safari tent holds up beautifully in a downpour, making it possible to watch and listen to the rain, snug and dry, without having to pack up and head home. And yes, for a fee, you can bring your furry best friend.

Lodge at Gulf State Park: Right on the beach, the ecofriendly Lodge at Gulf State Park, a Hilton Hotel, delivers a natural setting with both beach and pool views and easy access to the surf. There’s even a fishing lake along with walking and biking trails. The original lodge was destroyed by Hurricane Ivan in 2004; the rebuilt Hilton took its place in 2018. Furniture and tile are locally made with recycled and reclaimed materials, and lights all face away from the beach to protect sea turtle nesting habitats. 

And a Nightcap

Stone Gables Bed & Breakfast: Don’t miss this under-the-radar speakeasy at The Wharf in Orange Beach. Get to these handcrafted cocktails by going through the glass doors next to Frank & Co. Jewelry Store across from Villaggio Restaurant. Wave your hand in front of the red light by the entry door to get to the vault, where you’ll enter the daily code posted on Facebook. The bar is known for its layered builds, bold flavors, impressive glassware, and tropical tiki options made with fresh juices and imported rums.

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