River City Reawakening | Listen

San Antonio is steeped in American history and a wealth of culinary culture

High on my list for visiting San Antonio, Texas, last fall was its designation as a Creative City of Gastronomy by UNESCO in 2017. My last visit there had been in the ’90s when dining at the top of the city’s looming Tower of the Americas was considered the ultimate. Fast-forward and the Alamo City’s food scene has evolved into a delicious tapestry of diverse cuisines and experiences—from fine dining to solid bar food and everything in between. The city maintains an old-world feel, with the San Antonio River Walk meandering through it. I spent most of my time around Pearl, a mixed-use neighborhood in Midtown that’s recently received some fresh energy from the opening of an all-encompassing food market, a music venue, and trailblazing restaurants—but there’s plenty to explore away from the river, too. Side note: Two days and nights were hardly enough—the city’s
gastronomic gifts are plentiful enough for a weeklong stay.

Meet Pullman Market

The district known as Pearl has long had its share of stellar dining—Steve McHugh’s famed Cured restaurant has been an anchor since 2013, and Hotel Emma, an alluring stay repurposed from the original Pearl Brewery, followed shortly after in 2015. Pullman Market is the latest addition, a 40,000-square-foot campus from Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group that includes a spectacular grocery market that sticks close to sourcing Texas products, from produce to an on-site butcher shop and bakery. With grab-and-go foods, fresh breads, flowers, and handblown ceramics, it took everything in me not to bring it all home—instead, I snacked on a mojo pork taco while I meandered and made plans to return for dinner.

Isidore is where I found a true taste of Texas. The grill-focused kitchen sources across the state for show stopping presentations like mesquite-roasted cauliflower and embered beets with black persimmon—and don’t miss the Texas-only wine pairings. My next visit will be for Nicosi, a dessert-only tasting menu space (hint: it’s not all sweet), and the buzzing Italian café Fife & Farro.

A Shiny Pearl

Centered on the former Pearl Brewery, this historic Midtown district has its own distinct charm, with the brewery building’s original architecture setting an idyllic scene, complete with shaded green spaces and open plazas. The Food Hall at Bottling opened in 2017 as an incubator for food businesses, and one of its notable newest is Freight Fried Chicken from chef Nicola Blaque, whose first spot, The Jerk Shack, draws lines for its Jamaican-spiced chicken—her tender basket with loaded potato salad is a must.

Also in the district, Otto’s Ice House recently opened from chef Levi Goode, paying homage to the Pearl’s original head brewer. Nearby, the Culinary Arts Institute has a satellite campus anchored by Savor, a bistro run by the attending students.

Last year saw the revitalization of the brewery’s former stable with live music venue Stable Hall—my trip coincided with a show by legendary performer Lucinda Williams, whose signature raspy vocals shot up past the disco ball hanging from the vaulted, wood-beamed ceiling.

Beyond the River Walk

Strolling along the River Walk is a rite of passage, one that leads to discoveries like the San Antonio Museum of Art (housed in the former Lone Star Brewery). But I also dipped into outlier neighborhoods like Southtown, where Gimme Gimme is known for exceptional bar food and martinis, and the casual Leche de Tigre serves up outstanding Peruvian ceviche on its patio. Both are not far from the newly opened Kimpton Santo, which was partially constructed from a circa-1858 former schoolhouse and seamlessly blends 19th-century design with a modern touch. Its open-air rooftop bar is just the spot to unwind, while Dean’s Steak & Seafood, complete with a raw bar and wall of whiskeys, reminded me that a large part of San Antonio’s charm is the way it perfectly marries the Old World with the new.

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