Balancing the Art of Rhubarb

Chef Jared Hucks at The Alden in Chamblee, Georgia, loves focusing on underutilized produce—and in spring, rhubarb is one of his top picks. “It’s a very versatile ingredient, floral, sweet, acidic,” he says. However, balancing its high acidity can be a challenge that deters some home cooks.

According to Hucks, using other flavor elements helps rhubarb shine in savory uses as well. In addition to basic salt and sugar, he likes to experiment with honey, MSG, or fish sauce. He also ferments and pickles rhubarb and then adds it as a condiment in a main dish. He even makes use of the vibrant color of the fibrous, often tough skin by dehydrating it and grinding it into a powder, which, he says, “is beautiful for presentation on the plate.”

Ferment It*

Lacto-fermentation (fermenting using salt) is Hucks’ favorite treatment of rhubarb before using it in a sauce for fish or duck. “Fermentation brings out flavors,” he says.

Back to Basics

A strawberry and rhubarb tart or pie is not uncommon on the spring menu at The Alden, along with rhubarb sorbet or even a caramel. “It’s very easy to do with a simple syrup and fruit,” Hucks says.

Toss It Together

A vinaigrette made from macerated rhubarb makes a delicious salad dressing—and throw some English, snow, or snap peas into the salad as well, which Hucks says is a perfect spring pairing.

*Hucks recommends lacto-fermenting with a home vacuum sealer, which he says removes a lot of the challenges of jar fermentation, such as mold. Mix rhubarb with salt at 2 percent the weight of the amount of rhubarb you’re using, vacuum seal it, and store at 70 to 75 degrees for one week.