Letter From the Editor: Our Fall 2023 Issue Is Here

Wine is by far my drink of choice. I love that, even after years of tasting and studying it, there’s always more to learn. Early on in my career, I worked part-time at a wine store while also taking classes at Boston University’s Elizabeth Bishop Wine Resource Center, and my fascination for what’s in the bottle hasn’t stopped since.

Working in a wine store is no joke—from taking inventory and restocking shelves to offering recommendations and always being on, it’s an intense business. And, frankly, like most of the wine industry, it used to be dominated by men. Not anymore. Women have taken their place in all facets of the wine world, from winemaking and viticulture to hospitality, retail, wine media, importing, and more. Here in the Southeast, which has both its own burgeoning wine regions and a growing wine culture thanks to focused restaurants and wine shops, women from all backgrounds are now driving the conversation around wine. In this issue, we asked them to share their expertise on all things wine, from how it’s grown to how it’s served and how to order, shop, and taste like a pro. Whether you need a primer on natural wines or a quick glimpse of what makes Texas wines so special, you’ll find answers and inspiration in “Drink Like a Girl”.

Girl power permeates our issue, in fact. In “From Marsh to Menu,” you’ll get to know Ana Shellem, a sea forager supplying to some of eastern North Carolina’s best restaurants. We talk to Atlanta-based pop-up star Seung Hee Lee who offers more wine recommendations—this time natural pairings—to go alongside her Korean menu. And our cover topic, soups and stews, came to us from recipe developer and food stylist Ali Ramee.

We’re here for all of it, and we’re also happy to invite men to the table, including chef Katsuji Tanabe of Raleigh, North Carolina, who shares the story of his roots, and writer Stinson Carter, a long-time bartender-turned-writer, who takes us on a tour of Bermuda to better understand his favorite beverage. It’s an issue brimming with great stories to carry you out of the summer and straight into fall—glass of wine in hand.

Cheers,

Erin Byers Murray
@erinbmurray

Wines I’m Drinking This Fall

Weeknight: Santiago Ruiz, Rias Biaxas, 2022
I love sauvignon blanc, but during the fall this weightier Spanish blend of albariño, loureiro, and treixadura feels more luscious and seasonally appropriate.

Sunday Supper: Barboursville Vineyard Nebbiolo, 2019

I first tasted this wine at Virginia’s Nicewonder Farm and Vineyards, which celebrates all styles of Virginia-made wines. This excellent vintage goes well with the sultry flavors of fall, like mushrooms over creamy risotto or the beef stew with Southern root vegetables on page TK.

Splurge: Larkmead Solari 2019

Personally, I can’t wait for a chill to hit the air so I can settle in with a rich Napa Valley red, and Larkmead’s Solari hits the spot—the deeply focused, nicely perfumed cabernet sauvignon also happens to be made by a female winemaker, Avery Heelan. 

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