Key Ingredient

Flour is a Southern Pantry Essential in This Nashville Kitchen

By: Tate Jacaruso

A Nashville pastry chef makes the most of that one indispensable ingredient: flour.

Flour is king in Southern baking, and quality makes all the difference. Abigail Black, pastry chef at Henrietta Red in Nashville, uses King Arthur flour for her annual holiday pies, which sell like hotcakes. “It’s really consistent,” says Black of the flour, who also notes that it’s unbleached and accessible (available at Publix and Kroger). “We go through probably 70 pounds [of flour] a week,” she says. This year, she’s making pumpkin cheesecake pie topped with meringue for a classic option with a twist. “I think the cream cheese thickens it up a little,” says Black. “Makes it a nice bite.”

Pumpkin Cheesecake Pie recipe image Image courtesy of Stephanie Mullins
Image courtesy of Stephanie Mullins

Pumpkin Cheesecake Pie heading-plus-icon

yields

Makes 1 pie

    For the crumb crust:
  • 2⁄3 cup plus
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1⁄2 cup turbinado sugar
  • 1⁄4 cup coconut sugar
  • 1 2⁄3 cups King Arthur flour
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 teaspoons cinnamon
  • 3⁄4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon cardamom
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon allspice
  • 1 teaspoon salt

    • For the filling:
  • 4 ounces cream cheese
  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1⁄4 cup soft butter
  • 1 3⁄4 cups powdered sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon salt

    • For the meringue:
  • 1⁄2 cup egg whites (from about 4 eggs)
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon salt
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon cream of tartar

    • Special equipment:
  • Double boiler, candy thermometer, blow torch
steps
  1. Make the crumb crust: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars. Combine all dry ingredients in a bowl, then add to wet ingredients until thoroughly mixed.
  2. Spread crust dough on a sprayed, lined baking sheet and press flat with your hands. Bake for 10 minutes, mix with a spatula to make a crumb, then bake for 5 more minutes and mix again. Repeat as needed until dry and firm, then remove from oven. Mix in food processor until sandy.
  3. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter and add to mixture. If you squeeze dough in your hand and it clumps, it’s good to go. Add more butter as needed.
  4. Press evenly into a 9-inch pie pan. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes.
  5. Make the filling: In bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, combine cream cheese, pumpkin, and butter until smooth. Add powdered sugar and paddle until smooth. Add eggs and vanilla and mix until just combined. Add cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt and mix until combined.
  6. Increase oven temperature to 350 degrees. Pour filling into prepared parbaked crumb crust. Bake for 20 minutes, then check to see if edges are puffed and center is set but slightly jiggly. Add 10 minutes if needed. Let cool.
  7. Make the meringue: Combine all ingredients in a stand mixer bowl. Heat over a double boiler to 170 degrees.
  8. Transfer bowl to stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment and whisk on medium-high speed until bowl is cool to the touch and stiff peaks form, about 8 to 10 minutes.
  9. Spread over cooled pumpkin pie in a mound with swoops and swirls to your liking. Toast with a blow torch.

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Date Published: 01.05.26
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About The Author

Tate Jacaruso

Tate Jacaruso loves celebrating Southern food, travel, and culture as associate editor at the Local Palate. She is based in Charleston and is currently making her way through every bowl of pasta and oyster on the half shell in town. Her work has appeared in Charleston Living Magazine and CHStoday.

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