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Get To Know Florence, Alabama

Unique eats take the stage in northwestern Alabama

Rivertown
Rivertown Coffee Co.

You may not know the Shoals in northwestern Alabama, but you know its sound. Muscle Shoals is the Hit Recording Capital of the World, attracting music legends like The Rolling Stones, Aretha Franklin, Willie Nelson, and Lynyrd Skynrd. The largest town in the Shoals, Florence is touted as the “Renaissance City”–convivial, eclectic, and welcoming to all. t


It’s the hometown of W. C. Handy, the Father of the Blues—and increasingly, in recent years, some stellar places to eat, such as Alabama staple Odette, a neighborhood farm-focused bistro, and Rivertown Coffee Co., home of a delicious breakfast sandwich. There’s also nothing quite like Staggs Grocery-store-turned-restaurant on a Friday morning, serving chocolate gravy over homemade biscuits. Weekends are a great time to visit and catch First Fridays, a monthly street festival
that occurs in downtown Florence every first Friday of the month from 5:30 to 9 p.m.

Best Places to Eat and Drink

Best Market: All The Best
A record store, coffee shop, bodega, and newsstand all in one, All The Best is a gathering place for the local
music scene, courtesy of husband-and-wife duo Kristy Bevis and Ben Tanner of the Alabama Shakes.

AllTheBest
All the Best store front. Photo Credit: Katie D’Arienzo

Best Coffee Shop: Companion Coffee Roasters
Companion Coffee Roasters in Seven Points is an ode to man’s best companion, a golden retriever named
Angus. Order the house special maple-and-orange latte and a lemon-lavender-blueberry scone.

Best Wine Shop: The Carriage Wine and Market
The Carriage Wine and Market is a sleek wine-focused bar and bottle shop with the largest Champagne
selection in Alabama.

Best Food Stand: The Shoals Shack
On the side of the road sits a tiny food stand with a rotating menu featuring Cajun garlic butter shrimp po’boys, chicken marinated in a sweet tea brine, and fried cheese curds with creole sauce.

The Shoals Shack
The Shoals Shack
TheShoals Edited
Trowbridge’s. FLCVB Owned

Best Diner: Trowbridge’s
In 1918, dairy farmer Paul Trowbridge opened Trowbridge’s, a lunch counter and soda fountain. The oldest ice cream shop in Alabama, the diner serves renowned flavors like orange-pineapple ice cream. (256) 764-1503

Best Sushi: Yumm Thai Sushi and Beyond
Thailand native Paul Visuthikosol pilots Florence’s first Thai and sushi restaurant, Yumm Thai Sushi and Beyond. Order the sweet potato fries and peruse the sizable sushi menu.

Where to Shop

TheShoals Edited
Billy Reid

Billy Reid
Designer Billy Reid’s flagship store and headquarters reside in Florence. Reid wants customers to feel at home in his stores, which epitomize a Southern residence dotted with antiques and family photographs. For the first time since 2019, Reid is hosting the 12th annual Shindig in October 2024, a festival celebrating music, food, fashion, and art.

Seven Points
Shop around Seven Points at Florence Trading Co., eleven54 on Wood, Mom’s, Autographs, Seven Points
Outdoors, and Vinyl Junkie.

Court Street Books
Opened in 2024, Court Street Books is an independent bookstore and coffee shop with new and used titles, including rare and regional reads.

Where to Stay

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Marriot Shoals Hotel

Marriot Shoals Hotel
Situated on the banks of the Tennessee River, the 360 Grille offers panoramic views atop the Marriott Shoals Hotel. At 27 stories high, it’s the only revolving restaurant in Alabama, turning 360 degrees every hour. A concise fine-dining menu sources regional, seasonal produce and features dishes like crab cakes, pan-seared scallops, filet mignon, and crème brûlée, along with a vast wine list. Book a reservation an hour before sunset. On the bottom floor, Swampers touts live music and a memorable evening. The entire property is undergoing a $25 million renovation, and each suite depicts the Shoals’ rich music history.

3 Takes on the Espresso Martini

Garth Poe is the beverage director for Easy Bistro & Bar, Main Street Meats, and Little Coyote in Chattanooga, Tennessee, where each bar serves its own version of the espresso martini to eager crowds.

Easy Bistro’s classic espresso martini uses fresh espresso and is made-to-order in a shaker tin. “The inspiration behind Easy’s is a café mocha, combining the flavors of coffee and chocolate in a frothy cocktail with a beautiful head of foam and creamy texture,” says Poe. “The Main Street Meats frozen [martini] is also based on this.”

For the Coyotito Espresso Martini, Little Coyote takes cues from Mexican hot chocolate “with all its wonderful spice characteristic.” This is Poe’s favorite iteration. “[The] mezcal base gives it a savory-smoky flavor that is just beautiful beside the coffee.”

When making these ’tinis at home, you’ll need a shaker tin, fine-mesh strainer, bar spoon, and blender, plus an optional coupe glass for style. Poe recommends using large ice cubes. After that, it’s all in the wrist. “Moving the shaker in an up-and-down motion while shaking causes the ice to roll in an oval-like rotation, which whips air into the cocktail, elevating the texture of the drink.” Happy shaking.

Drinks

Bartender’s Tips for Frozen Cocktails

The solution to beat the heat: frozen cocktails that aren’t overly sweet. Hailey Knight shares her tips and riff on two classics cocktails.

In the Spirit

In the Spirit: UNA Vodka | Listen

We sat down with UNA Vodka’s founder to hear about stopping to smell the flowers, and her journey into the spirits industry.

Drinks

Orange Blossom Espresso Martini

A floral twist on the classic espresso martini, this Orange Blossom Espresso Martini blends botanical notes into rich, creamy espresso.

A Feast for Réveillon | Listen

In a city known for its long-standing traditions, Réveillon is a holiday standout

Alon Shaya's Réveillon feast

Réveillon, for Catholics, especially in New Orleans, is a meal that was traditionally served on Christmas Eve after midnight mass. It originated in France, and it still happens in countries throughout Europe, but it’s something that we hold very dear as a tradition in New Orleans. Originally, it was a feast that started after midnight, maybe one o’clock in the morning—and went all night. It was really popular in the 1800s, and then it fell out of style for a little while. But it made its way back starting in the 1990s and became a tradition at New Orleans’ restaurants, outside of people’s homes. Obviously, it was not starting at one or two in the morning then, but a lot of restaurants began offering a Réveillon menu for the month of December to celebrate the tradition of the feast. It’s something New Orleans does that you don’t find many other places

I’ve always enjoyed going out to eat Réveillon around town—Commander’s Palace has always been top of my list. It’s a fun, celebratory night out. And I started paying attention to the menus, since the event is a chance to delve into older recipes and traditions. When we opened Miss River, my goal was for it to be considered a classic New Orleans restaurant—one day. (I think it has the bones to do that—we just need about 97 more years.) It’s built to be a place for celebration. So, when we opened, I decided to formally offer a Réveillon menu every December.

I’m Jewish, so I celebrate Hanukkah, but I celebrate Christmas in a lot of ways, too, especially the traditions around the food of Christmas. It’s been a big part of my life as a chef—I’ve cooked many Christmas dinners. I think that’s the beauty of holidays—you can gather around the big table and celebrate each other’s traditions.

wine being poured for the Réveillon feast

I was really embraced by the city of New Orleans when I moved and started cooking here in 2003. I started making Passover Seder meals here in 2009, and I noticed that a number of Catholic priests would come have Seder with us at our restaurant. I got to know a lot of them, and it really helped me understand, culinarily, the bridge between Catholicism and Judaism, as well as the backgrounds of each faith. Having Réveillon at the restaurant is a way for me to give back a little bit through my own creativity. And while it is fun and delicious, it’s also very meaningful and important to me.

December is an extremely festive time at Miss River. Every Friday during lunch, we do what we call a Festive Friday, which is when a lot of locals and visitors come in and get dressed up for a big meal out. There’s live music and it turns into a big party. During December, those Friday lunches run right into Réveillon, so there’s always a really good energy.  

And it’s a pretty rich feast, too. There’s usually a turtle soup, gumbo, a lot of oysters, and always an over-the-top dessert, like a gorgeous banana rum cake with white chocolate. I like to make stuffed crab shells—they’re very popular with my family during the holidays. The table is full of all these beautiful, traditional dishes, and really fun drinks, like our flaming espresso martini. At Miss River, we lean into the tradition—it’s the one time of year that you can come and do this.

Each year, my wife, Emily, and I get a group of our friends together to book a table, and we’ll sit and enjoy a glass of wine with them to be part of the celebration. It’s one of our favorite times of year. And it’s very New Orleans.

Alon Shaya's Réveillon gathering

Alon Shaya’s Réveillon Recipes

tuna tartare with a fancy sauce for Réveillon

Tuna Tartare with Fancy Sauce

holiday oysters for Réveillon

Oysters with Holy Trinity Mignonette

baby gem lettuces with mushroom vinaigrette for Réveillon

Little Gem Lettuces with Roasted Mushrooms

oyster dressing

Oyster Dressing

stuffed crab shells with a bowl of chives for Réveillon

Stuffed Crab Shells

bananas foster rum cake being cut into

Bananas Foster Rum Cake

Dining Out

Alon Shaya’s Favorite Middle Eastern Eateries

Leave it to food to reveal the most basic of truths—we aren’t so different after all. Exhibit A: Israel and the American South.

In the Field

The Essential New Orleans

From Bourbon Street to bánh mì, there’s a lot to love about the Crescent City—here’s how to take it all in.

At the Table

Hanukkah in New Orleans

Hanukkah is a celebration of heritage, invention, and family. Alon Shaya invites us into his home to share his Hanukkah menu from the Big Easy.

What’s Cooking at JXN Food & Wine Festival 2025

The JXN Food & Wine Festival (JXNFW) is back on March 14-15, 2025. The Local Palate, in partnership with Visit Jackson, looks forward to hosting the second annual festival that highlights the diverse and rich food culture of Mississippi’s capital and an expanded roster of chefs and beverage experts from around the South and beyond.

The event kicks off Friday, March 14 with intimate dinners at The Hen & Egg hosted by owner and chef Nick Wallace and guest chefs, Vishwesh Bhatt, Gabriel Pascuzzi, and Enrika Williams. You won’t want to miss as they prepare a four-course, unforgettable dinner with wines served by Jackson Family Wines. Tickets for both 6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. seatings of the Friday Feast dinners are available here while quantities last.

The main event on Saturday, March 15 includes tastings, cooking demonstrations, and live music from DJ Java. The festival will showcase a variety of chefs from Jackson, like Hunter EvansChaz LindsayGeno Lee, and more, and the wider Mississippi region, as well as from neighboring states. Doors open for general admission at 6 p.m. VIP ticket holders are invited to arrive at 5 p.m. for early access, including an exclusive VIP indoor and outdoor area with hors d’oeuvres and a complimentary bar, dedicated restrooms, and celebrity chef meet and greets.

Check out all of the participating chefs here.

New to the festival this year is our Friends of the Festival program, designed to offer a unique and enriching experience to cherished members of our festival community. Friends of the Festival will receive exclusive benefits including 2 tickets to the Friday Feast at The Hen & Egg with an exclusive cocktail hour + 2 VIP Access badges to the Main Tasting, a Meet & Greet with Top Chefs and celebrity talent, special discounts with our hotel partner, a curated selection of festival-themed swag, and recognition with name proudly displayed on our website as a Friend of the Festival.

For more information and tickets, head to jxnfoodandwine.com/.

On the Road

A Meal-by-Meal Guide to JXN, MS

Travel and eat safely in Mississippi while supporting these exceptional establishments offering both dine-in and take-out options.

Partnered
Partnered

Catching Up with Chef Katie Dixon | Video

Mississippi chef Katie Dixon is a culinary force with a passion for nourishing Southern cuisine utilizing fresh and nutritious ingredients.

Annual
In the Field

JXN Food & Wine Festival

Discover a bite of Southern culture and celebrate the City with Soul at the 2nd annual JXN Food & Wine Festival!

Our Top 5 Southern Cookbooks of the Year | Listen

We loved these 5 cookbooks so much, we’re wrapping them up to gift to others this year.

There’s a little bit of magic that passes from one person to the next when a cookbook is exchanged—it’s the ultimate expression of consideration. Being able to say, “you mentioned you’ve been wanting to learn how to make dumplings” or “I know how much you love a slow simmer,” without really saying it can speak volumes. As the year winds to a close, I looked back at the Southern food and cookbooks we covered in 2024 and these are the ones I’m most excited to gift to others this season.

For the Vegan-Curious

Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking, by Joe Yonan

Trust Joe Yonan to guide any cook into the world of plant-based cooking because his recipes not only work, they teach. He is himself a plant-based cook and eater (as well as the food and dining editor of The Washington Post), and in these pages, he provides a truly comprehensive guide that can be used on the daily, or dipped into for the occasional weeknight health kick. (Cookbook Club members: Read all about the cookbooks that have inspired Yonan.) 

Copy of COVER Mastering the Art of Plant Based Cooking

For the Avid Reader

Praisesong for the Kitchen Ghosts, by Crystal Wilkinson

As managing editor Emily Havener notes in her review of this cookbook, “Wilkinson is a poet and storyteller, a writer and a cook, and Praisesong is both a lovely and powerful literary work that identifies writing a cookbook for what it truly ought to be—one of the highest forms of art.” Anyone who loves to dive deep into recipes and stories, as well as anyone interested in the foodways of Black Appalachia, will adore this book.

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For the Overextended Parent

What to Cook When You Don’t Feel Like Cooking, by Caroline Chambers

In her review of Caro Chambers’ first cookbook, digital editor Amber Chase put the superstar Substacker’s recipes to the test while a toddler and relentless pile of laundry threatened to invade. The verdict? I’m not sure about the laundry but the toddler was slurping mussel broth in no time.

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For the Adventurous Baker

Bodega Bakes, by Paola Velez

Bakers might prefer precision and exactitude, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t room for radical creativity. Baker and pastry chef Paola Velez holds readers’ hands in this excellent new baking book where she shares her Dominican-American heritage through wild color and flavor pairings. In the card you include with it, guide your giftee to her zucchini sticky buns, nasturtium coconut cream pie, or caipirinha marshmallows.

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For the Lover of Southern Cooking

When Southern Women Cook, by Morgan Bolling and Toni Tipton-Martin

For anyone who digs classic Southern cooking, this book is a solid kitchen companion, especially because the book also delivers countless essays, histories, and stories around the impact women have long had on Southern food. When I interviewed the authors about the book, they suggested picking out a recipe you like and then reading the accompanying stories while you gather your ingredients—sage advice to pass along to whoever receives it. (Full disclosure: I, too, have an essay in this book!)

When Southern Women Cook Cover ()
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Looking for more ideas? Cookbook Club members can check out these cookbook reviews for more gifting inspiration:

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Cookbook Review: Bayou by Melissa M. Martin | Listen

Bayou drops you into the heart of the bayou communities where Martin grew up, […]

Explore the Coastal Communities of Franklin County & Florida’s Forgotten Coast

Delicious oyters from the Franklin at the Gibson in Florida’s Forgotten Coast.

You can still find the Florida you remember in the quiet coastal communities of Apalachicola, St. George Island, Carrabelle, and Eastpoint. Tucked like pearls strung along the northern gulf coast, Franklin County is known as Florida’s Forgotten Coast. Located about an hour south of Tallahassee, the area is a protected oasis with quiet beaches, vast wooded trails and scenic paddling sloughs and flowing rivers. This is where you come to slow down and embrace the pace of a simpler time and place.

Adventure seekers can enjoy kayaking, swimming, hiking, camping and exploring unique maritime heritage sites like the two historic lighthouses on St. George Island and Carrabelle Beach. Foodies will love the fresh local-caught seafood in quaint open-air cafes, an array of breweries, and the areas upscale restaurants.

Pick your Pace

Get in the water: You can rent a kayak or paddleboard to explore the many river sloughs, sandy coves and salt marshes and bay shallows of the area. The fishing is great here – book a charter or bring your own boat.

Wildlife abounds: The area is part of a seasonal fly-over for several migrating birds and butterflies. The Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve and Visitor Center in Eastpoint features a wooded boardwalk trail and touch tanks and displays for children to get up close and personal to marine life.

A gorgeous view of the coast at St. George Island State park Beach in Florida’s Forgotten Coast.

Hit the beach: Beach lovers will appreciate that the St. George Island State Park Beach is ranked among the top in the country featuring nine miles of undeveloped shoreline with some of the region’s finest fall birdwatching opportunities and camping facilities.

Shopping spree: Art galleries and boutiques can be found in Apalachicola, Carrabelle and on St. George Island. The area’s beauty has inspired a thriving artist community and a blossoming of art galleries.

Event-worthy food: The Forgotten Coast hosts several annual culinary events. Beginning in January, Apalachicola hosts an annual Oyster Cook-off and a nationally renowned BBQ Rib Cookoff. Visit St. George Island in February and March and enjoy a Shrimpfest and the region’s largest Chili cookoff. Later in the year, enjoy Brewfest and of course, the State’s oldest maritime event, the Florida Seafood Festival in November.

There are accommodations throughout the county and Florida’s Forgotten Coast to suite every taste, including beachfront homes to quaint B&Bs in a historic setting.

To learn more visit FloridasForgottenCoast.com.


On the Road

Get To Know Florence, Alabama

You may not know the Shoals in Alabama, but you know its sound. Legends like The Rolling Stones and Aretha Franklin shape Florence, Alabama.

In the Field

3 Takes on the Espresso Martini

Garth Poe of Easy Bistro & Bar, Main Street Meats, and Little Coyote in Chattanooga, shares 3 versions of the espresso martini.

At the Table

A Feast for Réveillon | Listen

Alon Shaya celebrates a very New Orleans Réveillon, marrying the rich traditions of the holiday with the city’s culture and community.

Cookbook Review: Bayou by Melissa M. Martin | Listen

Scroll down to listen this article

COVER Bayou by Melissa Martin

I learned so much within the pages of chef Melissa M. Martin’s second cookbook, Bayou: Feasting Through the Seasons of a Cajun Life (Artisan), which came out in fall 2024. The follow up to her award-winning Mosquito Supper Club cookbook (Artisan, 2020) drops you right into the heart of the bayou communities where Martin grew up, where boucheries and Cajun cookoffs punctuate the seasons, and water surrounds and impacts all. 

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Brewing Up a Celebration

’Tis the season for sophistication with these five caffeinated beverages

This holiday season, I’ve been inspired to transcend the creamy, dessert-like concoctions options that often dominate the genre of coffee cocktails. While indulgent creations certainly have their place, this year I’m mixing up these five signature recipes that are crafted to cater to a variety of palates, moods, and meal pairings. They strike a balance between complexity of flavor and simplicity of preparation, ensuring that even if you’re new to cocktail making, you can re-create these effortless, elegant drinks at home. 

I’ve also included bartender’s notes and variations for suggestions on how to customize your drinks, from making a cold beverage hot to making a mocktail swap that delivers all the flavor without the (boozy) buzz.

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Man, Hattan It Been for This Snowstorm

Try this cocktail if you like Manhattans. It’s full of sweet cherry, the spicy warmth of rye, and aromatic depth from coffee and vermouth. Antica Formula is a remarkable, slightly bitter Italian vermouth that adds the perfect amount of aroma and complexity. If you prefer a bit less sweetness and a bit more spirit forward, reduce the cherry liqueur by ¼ of an ounce and substitute with ¼ of an ounce more whiskey.

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Sherry, Sherry Baby

Featuring notes of smooth oak, subtle nuttiness, herbal nuance, and soft sweetness. For bolder character, use 1¼ ounces of reposado tequila. The toasted marshmallow gives this drink harmony and adds that extra wintry vibe—but you can also substitute an orange peel for a more refined look and a bit more brightness.

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Wired Mule

Try this holiday cocktail if you like Moscow Mules. It offers a kick of warming spices, refreshing delicate citrus, and round caramel notes. Any light, not-too piney/juniper-forward gin will work; feel free to adjust the amount of ginger beer to your liking. In this recipe I recommend Second State Coffee’s Guatemala Ixlama beans, a medium roast, balanced coffee with notes of dark chocolate, soft blackberry, and vanilla.

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The Alpine

Look for complex layers of peppermint, spice, chocolate, and smoke in this cocktail. Want more spice, less sweet? Substitute allspice dram for velvet falernum in this drink.

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Mull It Over

Try this cocktail if you like mulled wine. Jammy wines with notes of baking spices work well. Try an Anaerobic Natural process coffee, or ask your local specialty coffee shop for a recommendation. Black & White Roasters (out of Raleigh, North Carolina) typically has excellent whole bean options for this. Sip this one for warmth, comfort, and nostalgia.

At the Table

6 Batched Holiday Cocktails

Whip up one of these batched holiday cocktails while you wait for your turkey to roast, and enjoy your holiday long into the evening.

Southern Makers

26 Food Gifts From Southern Makers

The TLP staff shares their top food gifts this holiday season, highlighting favorite Southern makers and what they hope to give loved ones.

At the Table

Not Your Grandmother’s Pie | Listen

Pie is found in every corner of this country. And yet, no one does pie quite like the South. A new generation of pie makers is molding the future of Southern pastries.

From Field to Fork in Hopkinsville, Kentucky

The Batter Capital Wheat Stalk Sculpture in Hopkinsville, Kentucky.

Hopkinsville, Kentucky, is a treasure trove of history, mystery, and sweet adventure. This agricultural powerhouse boasts 350,000 acres of fertile farmland, producing some of the finest wheat in the nation. Annually, the region harvests over three million bushels of soft red winter wheat, cementing its status as Kentucky’s leading wheat-producing county. Hopkinsville’s agricultural prowess extends far beyond local recognition, as it supplies ingredients for globally renowned products. From Ghirardelli brownie mix and Krusteaz baking goods to Red Lobster’s famous Cheddar Bay Biscuit Mix and SunFlour cornmeal, Hopkinsville’s influence on the culinary world is undeniable. It’s no wonder this charming city has earned the title of “Batter Capital of the World®,” serving as a testament to its rich agricultural heritage and significant contribution to the food industry. 
 

Clock house close up in the middle of Hopkinsville, Kentucky.

Hopkinsville offers a wealth of experiences for visitors and residents alike. Downtown, you can admire the larger-than-life wheat stalk public art display and explore the city’s remarkable architecture through the Edgar Cayce Cell Phone Tour. History buffs will enjoy the Museums of Hopkinsville, including the Pennyroyal Area Museum and Woody Winfree Fire-Transportation Museum, which showcase the rich and sometimes bizarre history of Southwestern Kentucky. Learn about local notables like feminist icon bell hooks and discover the inspiration behind Steven Spielberg’s “E.T.”

For those interested in libations, visit craft bourbon distilleries MB Roland and Casey Jones, or enjoy a pint at the veteran-owned Hopkinsville Brewing Company. Wine enthusiasts can savor a glass at Naimoli Estates. When it comes to dining, try fine dining at The Local Irish Pub + Kitchen or The Mixer, or satisfy your BBQ cravings at BBQ Shack or The Woodshed. With its diverse offerings, Hopkinsville ensures there’s something for everyone to enjoy. 

During your visit to Hopkinsville, immerse yourself in the vibrant local culture through various attractions, festivals, and events. Don’t miss the popular Hoptown Harvest Festival or the lively Summer Salute celebration. Sports enthusiasts can catch an exciting Hoptown Hoppers baseball game. For a truly unique experience, plan your trip for the first weekend after Labor Day to witness the captivating Trail of Tears Intertribal Pow Wow, a celebration of Native American beauty, culture, and spirituality. 

Hopkinsville also offers diverse outdoor activities for all ages. Challenge your family to a round of mini-golf at Christian Way Farm’s charming 18-hole course, one of the area’s many agri-tourism attractions. Nature lovers can explore Pennyrile Forest State Resort Park, where you can ride horses on scenic trails or enjoy hiking and biking through lush forests. For a truly unexpected adventure, visit Kentucky’s only full-service, diver-exclusive resort facility, where you can experience the thrill of scuba diving in the heart of the Bluegrass State. 

Plan your trip to Hopkinsville at visithopkinsville.com visithopkinsville.com.  

Dining Out

9 Noteworthy Kentucky Restaurants | Listen

From Southern barbecue to Korean fusion, Kentucky offers a diverse range of restaurants that you can’t miss when you visit next.

On the Road

Bluegrass Spirit on the Kentucky Bourbon trail | Listen

Along the rolling grass hills of the Bluegrass State, one writer visits three Kentucky distilleries specializing in bourbon.

On the Road

Central Kentucky Bluegrass Bites

Samantha Fore takes us on a culinary tour through Eastern Kentucky, sharing the diverse bites, from noodles to burritos, savored along the way.